Broken-In Car Database Project

[timneyb]

The Project:

UPDATE: The data is now up at http://www.gtdata.net.

I am starting this thread to encourage participation in an ongoing TPRA project to get numbers recorded for all cars in their optimum broken in condition. There are lists of car data out there, but our findings have been that they have inconsistencies and don't have all the data necessary to assist your hosts with creating events. Also, this database ultimately will be a definitive PUBLIC resource for finding cars compatible with TPRA events (making it public requires us figuring out how to host the database outside of the more limited confines of semi-public Google Docs).

The full current list of cars and data can be found here, on the "Big Sheet All Data" tab. Unfortunately, at present to prevent accidental or malicious editing you can't sort, filter or copy this data.

Starting with the various lists, I compiled a spreadsheet of all available data for cars in the game, and aim to update this list with values of broken in values. Data is recorded after breaking in the cars to over 200 miles but less than 6,000, then engine overhauling in GTAuto to provide the optimum, reliable values for each car. We also would like data from each car with certain upgrades added, to assist in the design of TPRA events.

At present there are some 97 cars with their confirmed broken-in values entered. I and some of the other "official" types here have started largely with the premium cars, since these can be purchased new with 0 miles and broken in to over 200 miles in their stock condition at an overnight/overwork endurance event. Standard used cars can also be entered, provided they have between 200 and 6,000 miles on the clock.

You can check which cars have their fully broken in data entered by going to this spreadsheet, and looking up your car on the "Break In Numbers" tab. Cars that have all the requested values entered are marked "complete" in column F. If you have a car that has different numbers to those listed, feel free to submit your values, with a comment.

If you have a broken in car, or would like to break one in for the project, please donate a little of your time and provide us with the numbers from your car, by following our instructions (in the following post) and submitting the data. To submit data to the project, open this form.

While I would very much encourage everybody to fill in all the data on the form for each car, if you can't take that time, just providing the broken-in, overhauled, stock values would still be of considerable assistance.

There are basic instructions on the form. Detailed instructions on submitting the form follow in the next post.

Obvious link to sheet.

Obvious link to form.

[timneyb]

Detailed Instructions:

Each car takes me about 12 minutes to enter all the data. Most of this time is spent going between game screens, so to maximize the efficiency of this process, here is a detailed step by step of how I enter the data for each car. A simpler set of instructions is included in the form..

Basic Car Info and preparation:

1. Backup your game save. You'll lose a few credits upgrading your car, and apply some irreversible mods.
   
2. Go to your garage and select a car to enter. This car must have between 200 and 6,000 miles on it. In the case of "Race Modified" cars, the RM process returns the engine to an unused state, and break in must be repeated, even if the unmodified car had more than 200 miles.
   
3. Confirm that the car has no irreversible engine mods or weight reduction.
   
4. Get into the car.
   
5. Record the Make, Model and Year of the car, whether it is a premium or standard model and your forum ID (optional, but this will help if you enter something weird ).
   
6. Record the car's mileage. Specify miles or kilometers.
   
7. Record the car's stock aspiration (NA, Turbo or Supercharged). If you are not sure, the blurb about the car will often tell you. You will see if the car is a turbo if you have the boost gauge when you take it on track (you'll be doing this in a few steps).
   
8. Take the car to GTAuto. Perform an engine overhaul. If overhauling isn't permitted, try to change the oil. If you have installed aerodynamic elements on the car, remove them in GTAuto.
   
9. Go to the tuning shop.
   
10. Optional (but very helpful). Record what parts are preinstalled on the car (blue ticks) or disallowed (yellow exclamation points).
    
11. Purchase a Sports Intake Manifold, Racing Air Filter and a Sports Exhaust Manifold. These modifications do not change the redline of the car and thus are difficult to regulate and are considered "Stealth Modifications". Race cars and some others may not allow these modifications (that's fine, buy what can be bought, and see later).
    
    Stock and Stealth modded data:
    
12. Take the car to GTLife Practice at any track.
    
13. Go to the tuning screen. Make sure that all modifications are removed from the car. Confirm that no ballast is installed on the car and the power limiter is set to 100%. If you have adjustable aero installed as stock elements on the car (race cars, for instance), open the adjust aero dialogue and select "reset to default".
    
14. Record the power, torque and PP of the car. If your car has no adjustable aero, record it's PP under "default aero".
    
15. For cars with adjustable aero, set aero to the minimum (front and rear) and record PP. Adjust aero to maximum and record PP. If your car has no adjustable aero, it's not necessary to enter anything in these two fields.
    
16. Install the stealth modifications: sports intake manifold, racing intake filter and sports exhaust manifold. If your car doesn't have these modifications (for example many race cars don't), install what you can – if you can install none, that's fine; you'll just be entering the same values below as you did for stock, but that is what we want.
    
17. Record stealth modded values for horsepower and torque. If your car has no adjustable aero, record it's PP under "min aero". If your car has adjustable aero record PP at its minimum and maximum settings.
    
18. Leave the tuning screen and enter the track. Record the red line of the car, as seen in bumper cam, as accurately as possible. For instance, if a sliver of black is visible between the 6250 line and the redline, record 6300.
    
19. Leave the track and return to your home GTLife screen.
    
    Maximum power, minimum weight.
    
20. Go to the tuning shop. Remove all possible weight. Install the best possible engine, intake and exhaust mods and the greatest possible turbo mod. If there is a choice between turbo and supercharger chose that which gives the most HP and PP (if there is a conflict here, chose that with the most PP and make a comment).
    
21. Record whether a supercharger was an available mod.
    
22. Go to GTAuto and install all available aero mods. Don't worry which version of the wing or splitter you install, they all seem to do the same thing to the car's PP.
    
23. Go to your garage and open your car's tuning screen.
    
24. Make sure all the mods you just purchased have been applied to the car. Adjust aero to maximum. Record the car's maximum power, torque and PP and its minimum weight.
    
25. If you have any comments, please provide them.
    
26. You are done. Submit the form.
    
27. Repeat for any other cars. Exit the game and restore your game save.

[timneyb]

Bump to announce the above project to get broken in data from as many GT5 cars as possible.

[clacksman]

This is both an effective way to gather a bunch of built-up cars and get my B-spec dopes to max out their experience too (there's a trophy first time you get one maxed). I put on all the bolt-ons before the race on the chance the car ends up strong enough to win the race unsupervised, after the race I change the oil and back up my gamesave there so that I have kept the car broken-in and ready to race. Usually I paint it matte so I can tell at a glance it's modified instead of a normal car.
Doing a Tsukuba 9-hour overnight works well. During the day (I'm not far from home to work) I can fit two shorter races in (one from morning, one from lunch), either of the Nurb 4h/Laguna Seca 200 races will do. Grand Valley 300km isn't really 300km and therefore not enough distance unless the car had some distance on it already.

[timneyb]

Breaking in my Tommy Makinen Evo tonight.

[Peyepete]

Breaking in my Tommy Makinen Evo tonight.

I'm going to start on my Standard cars alphabetically by Make, unless you have any preferred cars you need doing first.

[timneyb]

I'm going to start on my Standard cars alphabetically by Make, unless you have any preferred cars you need doing first.

No particular order required or requested. Focus on those that you got at 0 miles. We're still trying to confirm if and when a used car with low mileage still has its full horsepower.

[robiker]

I don't know the exact number, but I think it's somewhere between 3,500 and 3,700 miles where an oil change no longer restores full power.
After about 12,000 miles, even an engine rebuild won't do it.

[clacksman]

I don't know the exact number, but I think it's somewhere between 3,500 and 3,700 miles where an oil change no longer restores full power.
After about 12,000 miles, even an engine rebuild won't do it.

Interesting. I have various unmodified (Standard) SRT4s, two of which are ~30km apart and the 'older' one has one less horsepower permanently. 11589.0 km has 220hp even after engine refresh, 11558.0km and all newer ones (including at 0km) have 221hp

[timneyb]

Interesting. I have various unmodified (Standard) SRT4s, two of which are ~30km apart and the 'older' one has one less horsepower permanently. 11589.0 km has 220hp even after engine refresh, 11558.0km and all newer ones (including at 0km) have 221hp

This is why I'm sticking with just using broken in from 0 miles. To really put a stick in when the irreversible engine wear occurs, and that started-at-0-mile cars equal UCD cars at some point I need a solid piece of comparitive data. I need a high horsepower car, available 0 miles and used, at X mileage, both engine refreshed and oil changed, showing the same HP and PP. If I saw that I would say, enter data for UCD cars that have less than X miles.

It's a bit of a quibble, but I've already got somewhat off values for all the cars.